My entrance to Llangybi is delayed by a procession of cows from one field to the next, but this trip is all about slowing down.
At the heart of the village, I slip into the quiet old church with polished box pews and a bat nursery in the roof trusses. A rugged wooden casket is propped against a wall with a sign: `I, this old Oak Trunk, was placed here in the yeart 1166 by the Churchwardens of the Parish, by the command of King Henry II to receive offerings to help the the Crusaders against the Turks and Saracens.`
Happily, the current wardens no longer accept contributions for this cause, but donations towards upkeep can be directed via a QR code near the font.
The church is named for St Cybi (pronounced `gubby`), a 5th century Cornish saint who was first cousin of St David and a descendant of King Arthur. As well as ministry in Gaul and Ireland, he founded churches in Cornwall and Wales, including this one on the Llŷn Peninsula.
Despite several notable quarrels with other religious and political leaders, he set up a monastery and centre of learning on Anglesey that thrived till the Reformation.
Locally, he is said to have struck a rock nearby, causing water to burst forth, becoming a holy well, renowned for its healing properties and drawing trails of the hopeful. At some point, the spring was channelled through a pool in a bath chamber with a neighbouring room for pilgrims to rest between dips.
Deemed especially effective for warts, tuberculosis, scurvy and rheumatism, an 18th century vicar compiled a report of successful cures. Young women also used it to divine the honour of their beloved, spreading a hanky on the waters. If it floated south, all was well, but if north, best to find a better man.
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